A Different Angle
A number of years ago, a technique was developed that revolutionized nymph fishing. This tactic, known as "right angle" nymphing, made effective presentation of nymph patterns and strike detection much easier. Using floating fly lines and poly yarn indicators, novice nymph fishermen could have a great deal of success in presenting subsurface patterns and hooking fish.
The key to right angle nymphing is in the setup of the rig, which gets the nymph down quickly to the feeding zone. The floating line, being much easier to mend than sink tips or sinking lines, allows for a natural, drag free presentation and the poly yarn indicator aids in the detection of very subtle takes. By varying the amount of tippet, you can fish virtually any depth.
This setup also has the benefit of producing an almost automatic tuck cast. The tuck cast was developed to make the nymph rig enter the water vertically and get down to the feeding zone much more quickly. Unfortunately, this cast can be somewhat difficult to master and if not executed properly can lead to tangles that would challenge Houdini.
Over the years we've added a few subtle changes to this system, which we feel further increase its effectiveness. (See diagram)
The Rig
1) Place the split shot on a 6"-8" piece of 6x tippet below the bottom fly. (When fishing more than one nymph which I often do). . This accomplishes two things. Note: Make sure to tie a double overhand knot below the split shot to prevent them from being flung off during the cast.
First, I believe that most anglers when fishing nymphs just don't get the fly deep enough. In my case it was because I got tired of donating flies to the stream bottom. By placing the split shot on the bottom of the rig, when you get hung up, it is a simple matter to break off the light (6x) tippet and quickly tie on another piece of tippet and add the split shot. I lose a lot less nymphs with this rig and still get the flies deep.
Second, it allows for easier detection of the strike. Most inexperienced nymph fishers often don't even see when a fish takes the subsurface pattern, or if they do, it's usually too late to set the hook. By putting the weight below the fly, the fish doesn't have to move the split shot to cause that slight hesitation or dip in the indicator. This can lead to a lot more hooked fish.
2) I allow the nymph or nymphs (Be sure to check the regulations about using multiple flies) to slide freely on a 4"-8" section of tippet. These is done by tying double, triple or even quadruple Surgeon's Knots in the tippet above and below the section that the nymph is on. Tie a bulky enough knot so that the eye of the hook cannot go past the knot. With larger nymphs (Which I'll often use as the bottom fly, with a smaller nymph above) it is sometimes impossible to get enough bulk in the knot to prevent it from slipping past the knot. In this case I'll use a Duncan Loop and tie the bottom section of tippet (with the split shot) to the eye of the bottom fly. By allowing the fly or flies to slide freely on the short sections of tippet, the most natural, life-like presentations are possible.
3) I also use a level piece of tippet for the section of leader from the poly indicator to the knot above the first fly. Tie with a clinch knot in front of the indicator. Use the appropriate strength for the conditions (If the water is heavy or cloudy, I'll use 3x. If it's clear, I'll sometimes go to 6x) Use the lightest tippet you can because the smaller diameter the tippet, the faster it cuts through the water column and gets down to the feeding zone. It's not necessary to use tapered leaders because its not that critical that the fly and leader turnover perfectly.
Casting
Forget those elegant, tight, dry fly casting loops with this setup, unless you like spending most of your day on stream untangling birds nests and using more expletive deletives than Richard Nixon. This rig requires more of the "chuck and duck" approach. The method I've found most effective in "getting it out there" is to peel off just the right amount of line for the target area you want to fish, let it drift downstream until taut. Then slowly load the rod with the water tension, and using a very open loop, lob the rig upstream. Repeat this in all the likely holding water until you have thoroughly covered the area, then either move your casting position or peel off a couple more feet of line and cover the water. The rod tip should describe a slow arc, not a straight line as in dry fly casting. This is not the rig that you want to false cast much either. I usually don't false cast at all, which gives the added benefit of keeping the fly in the water more.
Nine foot or longer rods with moderate flex in the appropriate weight for the conditions and size of the nymphs you're fishing work best.
I've found that this setup tends to tangle less when casting. I'm not sure of the physics, but it's probably due to the fact that the split shot is at the end of the rig and doesn't "bolo" around the fly or flies as often as the conventional setup.
Fishing
This system works best when fished "under the rod tip" to about thirty feet. Beyond that casting is a nightmare and line control is difficult. Aggressive wading helps to get closer to prime water. (Check the felt on your wading boots and have your wading staff close at hand)
Fishing nymphs effectively with this system involves:
1) Locating fish or prime lies and effectively and thoroughly covering the water
2) Getting the fly at the proper depth. This isn't always right on the stream bottom. With this setup it's relatively easy to adjust the depth of the fly by adding tippet to the section between the indicator and the knot above the upper fly. If you know there are fish and you're still not hooking up, try adjusting the depth before you change patterns.
3) Drag free presentation. Line control is the key. I'm constantly telling my clients to "mend, mend, mend" probably to the point of mild irritation. But to have any success in this type of nymphing, it is essential that the indicator bob along drag free with the current. Typically, a number of upstream or stack mends are required on each drift to keep the indicator and the fly dangling below from being yanked downstream.
A typical presentation goes like this...When the line is taut below you make the lob cast upstream of the sighted fish or likely holding water. Mend the fly line upstream of the indicator immediately after the cast using an upstream mend or a series of stack mends, trying not to move the indicator. Continue to mend to keep the indicator from dragging, carefully watching for any hesitation or dip. If you haven't hooked up, let the line swing downstream until it is under tension and repeat the process. Cover the water with a number of good drifts. If you still haven't had a take, it's a good time to either adjust the depth of the rig or change patterns until you find the right combination.
Notes & Variations
Here are a couple variations of this system:
1) Instead of split shot (If you use split shot make sure it is non-toxic) you can use tungsten beads knotted to the bottom of the 6x section. They get the fly down in a hurry. I've also used non-toxic sink putty literally "dubbed" onto the lower section. It helps to tie a few overhand knots in this section to give the putty something to "hold on to". Using sink putty has the added benefit of pulling off should it become hung up. Just "dub" on some more and you're right back in the water.
2) Debarb your flies. This obviously not only helps to release fish more easily, but minimizes the free sliding nymph from tangling or abrading the tippet sections.
3) If you're using heavily weighted nymphs and/or lots of split shot you might want to use a foam indicator. Attach the foam indicator the same as you would with a yarn indicator. Many times a poly indicator used with lots of weight gets pulled under. It doesn't hurt to soak the yarn, whether you make them yourself or buy those commercially available, with HydroStop.
4) The leader section from the fly line to the indicator can be a level piece of monofilament or an old leader cut back to 3'-4'. I use a loop to loop connection at the fly line to make it easier to take the rig off and on.
Small Streams...Big Bites
During the last three years of high water, we've spent a lot of time on our smaller streams and tributaries during early season runoff. When our larger waters are raging, we discovered great early season fishing on these smaller waters.
One surprise that came from our exploration was, although most of the fish caught were relative to the size of the stream, these little Sierra gems held a surprising population of good sized fish. This revelation came when we put on a mask and snorkel and took the time to observe the behavior of trout in their habitat. We found that usually each "hole" held one or two "over achievers," fish that were 14-16 inches.
Good fish in any river, but true Goliath's in these confined waters. They got to this size for good reason, they were extremely wary and tended to take their meals in bigger bites. Most of our smaller Sierra streams are tumbling freestone waters, flowing through granite canyons with lots of canopy. Due to the ph of these streams, they are less rich in aquatic insects than our tailwaters. Although they have their hatches of mayflies, stoneflies and caddis, terrestrials are a large part of the trout's diet. The larger trout, not wanting to expose themselves, lie in wait for these "happy accidents" from overhead. They seem to prefer to take their meals in larger bites and return to the safety of their holding lie. This was confirmed by taking samples with a stomach pump.
The key to hooking these larger fish, like so many other discoveries, came mostly by accident. A number of times, while fishing terrestrials, it would inadvertently be sucked underwater during the drift. All of a sudden...slam. A fat rainbow or brown would be hooked up and headed for cover. It makes a lot of sense. Any terrestrial that has the misfortune of falling into these tumbling waters is usually sucked under pretty quickly and the fish lie in wait for these easy meals. A hopper, ant or beetle with a split shot or two pinched on and fished subsurface with a dead drift can be extremely effective on these streams.
So this spring, if your favorite big water is blown out or you want a fun change of pace, grab that 3 or 4 wt and find that intimate small stream.
Rippin' Lips...
As stated by a fly fishing guide and instructor, "I've had the opportunity to fish with hundreds of anglers of all skill levels. From novice to more advanced fly fishers, surprisingly one of the biggest mistakes most anglers make is not their casting or presentation, but in how they set the hook."
Time after time he has seen an angler make a great cast, get a drag free drift and a fish rises to take the dry or halt the indicator. With a violent upward motion, the angler raises the rod and...#%&#$ is usually the next sound you'll hear. The average angler probably only hooks 50% of the fish he fools, less when fishing nymphs. Unless you are "high sticking" under the rod tip, lifting the rod straight into the air is not the most effective way to hook fish.
Good hook sets start with the presentation. Although most good fly fishers use some sort of slack line cast to extend their drift, it is important to strip in any excess line as the fly comes back to you. The shortest distance between two points is a straight line, so mend and retrieve your line leaving just enough slack to avoid causing drag.
When dry fly fishing upstream and a fish tips up to your fly, try stripping down with your line hand while simultaneously moving the rod down stream parallel to the water. This motion rapidly gets any slack out of the line, breaks surface tension and pulls the fly back into the fish's mouth.
If you're making a downstream dry fly presentation you must hesitate a second until the fish turns down with the fly. Then pull down with the line hand to remove slack and keep the rod low. When you feels the weight of the fish, then raise your rod tip
Setting the hooking when long line nymphing with an indicator usually presents problems for most anglers. Use the same techniques as with upstream dry fly presentation, but with a more vigorous pull with the line hand. This is necessary because of the resistance of the water.
When fishing small flies on gossamer tippets, try stripping gently with the line hand with no rod movement. Once you feel resistance, raise your rod and keep slight pressure on the fish. You'll break off a lot less fish with the method.
With these techniques not only will you hook more fish, but you'll have the added benefit of losing a lot less flies. How many times have you missed a fish with an upward hook set and have the fly come whistling overhead and end up in a tree out of reach? By keeping the rod low and parallel to the water you'll be able to retrieve any missed strikes that find their way into the vegetation.
Learning these techniques is just a matter of on stream practice and patience. You'll have to unlearn some well-ingrained habits and reflexes, and consciously resist the urge to "heave to," but you will benefit if you learn these techniques.